| Oldendorf Boxers of... Old Woods Trail Kennel 20898 Old Woods Trail Barnett, Mo. 65011 Phone #(573)378-8310 oldendorfboxers@yahoo.com www.oldendorfboxers.com |
WALKING ON A LOOSE LEASH
Did you know that a puppy pulls on the leash because he is being rewarded for it? It’s true. When a puppy pulls on the
leash and is jerked backward but the owner continues walking forward, it only teaches the puppy to pull harder. The
method outlined below teaches the puppy how to walk on a loose leash in a positive way and makes leash walking an
enjoyable experience for both you and the pup.
When training, remember these key points:
* Keep each session very short. A few minutes are sufficient. It is important to stop the lesson BEFORE the puppy shows
any signs of tiring.
* Crating your puppy for 10 minutes after the lesson will help it to absorb what it has learned.
* Always praise before rewarding with treats because eventually, the treats will be eliminated and the puppy will be
working for your praise alone.
* Use small, soft treats (i.e., sliced hot dogs, string cheese) when training because they are easier for the puppy to
swallow.
* This method may seem like a long, drawn out process but most puppies pick up on it very quickly and it doesn’t take
much time at all. Do not be alarmed if certain steps take your puppy much longer to learn and do not be afraid to back
up a step if you feel your puppy is not making progress. Just like us, puppies sometimes need a refresher course!
Step 1: Accepting the Collar and Leash
As soon as your puppy becomes accustomed to his new home, you can start to teach him to walk on a loose leash.
Begin by getting him used to wearing a buckle collar. It should be lightweight and made of nylon or fabric. The collar
should fit snugly behind the puppy’s ears so it cannot slip off his head. Some puppies will scratch at the collar the first
time you put it on but very soon, he will learn to ignore it. At this point, attach a very lightweight leash to the collar and let
him drag it around for several minutes at a time. Be sure to supervise your puppy during each session because it will be
very easy for him to become tangled. Practice this step indoors with no distractions present (other dogs, people, etc.).
As soon as the puppy is no longer bothered by the leash, its time to move on to the next step.
Step 2: Standing on a Loose Leash
Now that your puppy is accustomed to the leash, the next step is for the puppy to stand on a loose leash. Again, you
want to begin this exercise in a quiet location, preferably indoors. It’s extremely helpful to work in a small room with the
door closed. That way, it’s just you, your puppy and a handful of treats. In the beginning, let the puppy know you have
food because he will be more likely to stick near you. When the puppy is standing next to you calmly, PRAISE and feed
him treats. Praise is very important. Keep your voice lively and use different words ("What a good puppy, that’s it, you’re
doing a great job, yes"). This exercise will teach your puppy that when you’re holding the leash and he’s near you, he
gets goodies. NOTE: If your puppy is not motivated by treats, try working with him before his mealtime when he’s hungry.
Once your puppy can stand next to you on a loose leash, you’re ready to…
Step 3: Start Moving
Begin the lesson in a quiet location and have plenty of treats on hand. It may not be possible to do this indoors, but at
least your backyard or another quiet place that is familiar to your puppy. With the puppy standing beside you on the left
side, start walking in a large circle to the left (approximately 30 feet in diameter). Since you will be leaning into the turn
all the way around, this will curtail any pulling motion from the puppy. The idea is to get a walking rhythm with you and
the puppy. When the puppy is beside you, praise and treat. When your puppy is comfortable with this exercise, start
taking him to different places. Large fields work nicely. At this point, it’s OK if there are some distractions present but not
too many. Remember, he’s still learning! You will probably have to stay at this step for several days. Remember to stop
the lesson before your puppy shows signs of tiring. An older puppy or dog will be able to train a little longer.
Step 4: Coming Down the Homestretch
Next, we want to teach the puppy to walk in a straight line. Just as with each previous step, you should work in a familiar,
quiet place. It’s best to begin each session with a few large circles to the left to get the puppy used to the rhythm and the
food. Once the circle has been established, come out of the circle and take a few steps in a straight line. By this time,
the puppy knows you have food and will probably stick near you. In the event the puppy does start pulling, simply STOP.
Do not snap the leash. Since the puppy is not moving forward and you still have the food he will probably look back at
you. When he does praise profusely and show him a treat which you will hold at your left side. The puppy must come to
you to get the treat. If it helps, pretend like your hand is glued to your left leg. Do not take any steps forward towards the
puppy. Once the puppy returns to you, begin walking forward again. If the puppy continues to pull, you may have to
back up a step and work more circles to the left. When you are able to take several steps with the pup at your side,
praise, treat and then release. Two good release words are "OK" and "FREE". Whatever release word you choose, it’s
important to stick with it throughout your training. After releasing the puppy, play for a few minutes before continuing with
the lesson. Gradually, you can take more and more steps before you release the puppy…just remember to praise, treat
and then release. When you see that your puppy is getting the hang of it, it’s time to move him to different places. When
he’s walking nicely in different places with distractions present, it’s time to move on to the next step.
Step 5: What? No Food
At this step, food is decreased very gradually. From now on, the puppy will have to work harder to get rewarded. In other
words, he’ll have to walk under control a greater distance before he gets a treat. Continue to praise as long as he’s not
pulling on the leash. Remember, if he starts slipping into bad habits, you may have to go back to working large circles to
the left. If he occasionally pulls, just STOP and hold a treat near your leg and let the puppy return to you. He only gets
treats when he’s at your side. Some larger puppies and older dogs can be very obstinate when it comes to walking on a
leash. They are very strong and they know it. Especially when walking in new areas…the sights and smells are
wonderful and your dog’s desire to pull can become stronger than even getting fed by you. In this case… TURN
AROUND When your dog pulls, simply turn and go the opposite direction. There is no need to "pop" the dog on a choke
collar for this to work. A plain buckle collar will work nicely as long as your turn is very deliberate. Don’t look back at the
dog or coax it in any way, just change direction. When he’s walking under control, praise and feed at your side.
Now, let’s go for a walk!
Did you know that a puppy pulls on the leash because he is being rewarded for it? It’s true. When a puppy pulls on the
leash and is jerked backward but the owner continues walking forward, it only teaches the puppy to pull harder. The
method outlined below teaches the puppy how to walk on a loose leash in a positive way and makes leash walking an
enjoyable experience for both you and the pup.
When training, remember these key points:
* Keep each session very short. A few minutes are sufficient. It is important to stop the lesson BEFORE the puppy shows
any signs of tiring.
* Crating your puppy for 10 minutes after the lesson will help it to absorb what it has learned.
* Always praise before rewarding with treats because eventually, the treats will be eliminated and the puppy will be
working for your praise alone.
* Use small, soft treats (i.e., sliced hot dogs, string cheese) when training because they are easier for the puppy to
swallow.
* This method may seem like a long, drawn out process but most puppies pick up on it very quickly and it doesn’t take
much time at all. Do not be alarmed if certain steps take your puppy much longer to learn and do not be afraid to back
up a step if you feel your puppy is not making progress. Just like us, puppies sometimes need a refresher course!
Step 1: Accepting the Collar and Leash
As soon as your puppy becomes accustomed to his new home, you can start to teach him to walk on a loose leash.
Begin by getting him used to wearing a buckle collar. It should be lightweight and made of nylon or fabric. The collar
should fit snugly behind the puppy’s ears so it cannot slip off his head. Some puppies will scratch at the collar the first
time you put it on but very soon, he will learn to ignore it. At this point, attach a very lightweight leash to the collar and let
him drag it around for several minutes at a time. Be sure to supervise your puppy during each session because it will be
very easy for him to become tangled. Practice this step indoors with no distractions present (other dogs, people, etc.).
As soon as the puppy is no longer bothered by the leash, its time to move on to the next step.
Step 2: Standing on a Loose Leash
Now that your puppy is accustomed to the leash, the next step is for the puppy to stand on a loose leash. Again, you
want to begin this exercise in a quiet location, preferably indoors. It’s extremely helpful to work in a small room with the
door closed. That way, it’s just you, your puppy and a handful of treats. In the beginning, let the puppy know you have
food because he will be more likely to stick near you. When the puppy is standing next to you calmly, PRAISE and feed
him treats. Praise is very important. Keep your voice lively and use different words ("What a good puppy, that’s it, you’re
doing a great job, yes"). This exercise will teach your puppy that when you’re holding the leash and he’s near you, he
gets goodies. NOTE: If your puppy is not motivated by treats, try working with him before his mealtime when he’s hungry.
Once your puppy can stand next to you on a loose leash, you’re ready to…
Step 3: Start Moving
Begin the lesson in a quiet location and have plenty of treats on hand. It may not be possible to do this indoors, but at
least your backyard or another quiet place that is familiar to your puppy. With the puppy standing beside you on the left
side, start walking in a large circle to the left (approximately 30 feet in diameter). Since you will be leaning into the turn
all the way around, this will curtail any pulling motion from the puppy. The idea is to get a walking rhythm with you and
the puppy. When the puppy is beside you, praise and treat. When your puppy is comfortable with this exercise, start
taking him to different places. Large fields work nicely. At this point, it’s OK if there are some distractions present but not
too many. Remember, he’s still learning! You will probably have to stay at this step for several days. Remember to stop
the lesson before your puppy shows signs of tiring. An older puppy or dog will be able to train a little longer.
Step 4: Coming Down the Homestretch
Next, we want to teach the puppy to walk in a straight line. Just as with each previous step, you should work in a familiar,
quiet place. It’s best to begin each session with a few large circles to the left to get the puppy used to the rhythm and the
food. Once the circle has been established, come out of the circle and take a few steps in a straight line. By this time,
the puppy knows you have food and will probably stick near you. In the event the puppy does start pulling, simply STOP.
Do not snap the leash. Since the puppy is not moving forward and you still have the food he will probably look back at
you. When he does praise profusely and show him a treat which you will hold at your left side. The puppy must come to
you to get the treat. If it helps, pretend like your hand is glued to your left leg. Do not take any steps forward towards the
puppy. Once the puppy returns to you, begin walking forward again. If the puppy continues to pull, you may have to
back up a step and work more circles to the left. When you are able to take several steps with the pup at your side,
praise, treat and then release. Two good release words are "OK" and "FREE". Whatever release word you choose, it’s
important to stick with it throughout your training. After releasing the puppy, play for a few minutes before continuing with
the lesson. Gradually, you can take more and more steps before you release the puppy…just remember to praise, treat
and then release. When you see that your puppy is getting the hang of it, it’s time to move him to different places. When
he’s walking nicely in different places with distractions present, it’s time to move on to the next step.
Step 5: What? No Food
At this step, food is decreased very gradually. From now on, the puppy will have to work harder to get rewarded. In other
words, he’ll have to walk under control a greater distance before he gets a treat. Continue to praise as long as he’s not
pulling on the leash. Remember, if he starts slipping into bad habits, you may have to go back to working large circles to
the left. If he occasionally pulls, just STOP and hold a treat near your leg and let the puppy return to you. He only gets
treats when he’s at your side. Some larger puppies and older dogs can be very obstinate when it comes to walking on a
leash. They are very strong and they know it. Especially when walking in new areas…the sights and smells are
wonderful and your dog’s desire to pull can become stronger than even getting fed by you. In this case… TURN
AROUND When your dog pulls, simply turn and go the opposite direction. There is no need to "pop" the dog on a choke
collar for this to work. A plain buckle collar will work nicely as long as your turn is very deliberate. Don’t look back at the
dog or coax it in any way, just change direction. When he’s walking under control, praise and feed at your side.
Now, let’s go for a walk!
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